USING OYSTER CLIPPERS 


TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT  


Nail cutter (scissor or guillotine), Styptic powder, Ear cleaner, Cotton balls, Shampoo (all-purpose or conditioning), Slicker brush Comb, Blending shears, Straight shears, Electric clipper#7, #10, and #15 blades

GROOMING PROCEDURE

1. Nails should be cut by removing the tips only. Avoid cutting into the quick, although if the nail should bleed, apply styptic powder to stop the bleeding. Any rough nail edges may be smoothed with a file.

2. Clean the ears by moistening a cotton ball with liquid ear cleaner and wiping accumulated dirt and wax from all crevices in both ears.

3. Cut the hair under the paw and between the pads with a clipper and a #15 blade.

4. Cut the hair on the abdomen from the groin to the navel with a #10 blade. Clip with the growth of hair.

5. Brush out the entire dog to remove any matting and/or dead coat.

6. Bathe the dog in your shampoo of choice and rinse him well. A conditioning cream rinse may be used to help cut down on static electricity and to make the coat more manageable.

7. Towel dry the dog until he is damp, and then fluff dry with a dryer while brushing the coat in the direction of its growth. This helps the hair lie flat.

8. With the #10 blade, clip the muzzle in the direction of hair growth and continue clipping over the cheek to the front of the ear opening. Clip the hair from the chin down to the throat. Continue to the top of the breastbone and inside the V of the throat seams (where the hair growing in two different directions comes together).

9. The top of the skull should be clipped, starting about /2 inch behind the eyebrows to the back of the skull. The top 1/3 of each ear should be clipped on both the inner and outer side of the ear leather. The hair just in front of the ear opening should be carefully clipped, as well, to allow air to circulate in the ear canal.

10. With a #7 blade, clip from just under the ear flap down the side of the neck to the shoulder.

11. The top body coat may also be cut with the #7 blade. Start at the base of the skull and work to the tip of the tail. Clip from the spine down, over the sides of the dog, to just past the widest part of the rib cage. This line is almost straight across the side of the dog, except in the shoulder area where it goes down to where the front leg joins the body on the front side. On the back leg, the clipper line goes a little lower to expose the muscle on the top of the outer thigh.

12. An optional method for the top coat, and, actually, the more correct way, is to leave the coat natural but to thin it out. This helps it lie flat against the dog. The lines for this method are the same as for clipping the dog.

13. The English Cocker should not be left with too much coat on the legs or abdomen. This hair should be shortened up with the blending shears so as to look natural.

14. With blending shears, to give the foot a tight compact look, remove the hair growing out between the toes and on top of the feet.

15. Again, with the blending shears, blend in the eyebrows to give the skull a long, lean look without a pronounced stop.
The completed English Cocker Spaniel should give the appearance of a short-bodied, strong-limbed dog
 with a distinctive head.
This breed should be groomed every 6 to 8 weeks